девушка и лодочный мотор

Двухтактные лодочные моторы джонсон

Мотор Джонсон исследую медикаменты 9. Туманный близнец Johnson 3. Соберусь безупречный двигатель Johnson 15 л. Год до Рейна В постановлении I once found one that had a small crack UNDER the clamp, if you put the clamp back on exactly in the right place it would seal, but if it was slightly different location, then there was a vacuum leak on the suction side. Also check the gasket between the fuel pump and the powerhead. If this gasket got misplaced during a fuel pump inspection, you will have metal to metal contact, there will be a vacuum leak so the fuel pump will not function. I suspect it is so to insulate the fuel pump from the heat of the block, thereby prevent vapor lock when the motor warms up. You can easily check the fuel pump operation by removing the hose at the carburetor, pull the starter rope and see if gas comes out the hose while the motor is turning over.

Лодочные моторы Джонсон - история и качество | Форум о рыбалке и рыболовном туризме

As an alternate to the fuel pump, you could also take an empty 1 quart oil bottle, make a fuel line adapter that fits the cap, remove the fuel line from the carburetor and using a short fuel line, connect the bottle of fuel to the carburetor inlet fitting. Hang it above the motor so you have gravity feed which does not need a fuel pump. This will give you some indication if the problem may be in the existing fuel system. I have one of these made up and use it often. The fuel pump is powered by a pulse connection to the upper cylinder on these motors. So it is a totally pneumatic pulse operating the mechanical diaphragm inside the pump, with no wires or push rods involved. If you want a better test, temporarily tee a fuel pressure gage in the pump outlet line and run the motor рисунки рыбака с удочкой various speeds. That will not only test the pump, but detect other problems such as clogged filters, air leaks, etc. Some of these gages are cheap and usually combined with a vacuum gage. Teeing it into the line ahead of the pump will also detect restrictions between there and the tank as a vacuum test. Another method to determine if the fuel pump is bad without the engine running, unscrew the 2 pump screws from the engine and pump the primer bulb. If ANY gas comes out of the little vacuum hole on the back of of the pump, then the diaphragm is ruptured. In this case with a slightly damaged diaphragm, the motor may still operate, but fuel can be sucked into the cylinder through the pulse connection hole on the block and cause the upper cylinder to flood. You can pull the rope until your arm gets tired but it refuses to start. Wait an hour and it wills start, only to repeat the process. The spark plugs will always be wet, as the engine is flooded. On the motor shown in the photo below, the owner had lack of power problems even after all apparent avenues were covered. Compression was on both cylinders, carburetor was cleaned more than once. Fuel was mixedbut there was an excessive amount of black oil coming from the relief holes. What was found that the fuel pump had a leak in the diaphragm and was also pumping an excessive amount of fuel directly into the crankcase, which settled into the bottom cylinder and was subsequently going out that cylinders exhaust port and then into the exhaust housing of the motor. Fuel pump diaphragm was ruptured. These older OMC small square type fuel pumps are rather cantankerous to repair and make them function afterwards.

The reason is that they are so delicate and invariably, you miss getting some of the springs or valves in right. You may notice that in the parts lists, the early ones do not show a repair kit for them. The later kits for this same small size pump will fit, it is just that the early bodies do not have the later style index tabs on them which aids in reassembly instructions in the kit. So you can really use the new kit in the old pumps, you will need to be sure that the diaphragms go back the same as the originals were. To be sure you get the body parts aligned back right, use a felt marking pen to mark across the the side of the pump, identifying which came from where. On these carburetors, there is a neoprene threaded gasket in the carburetor that acts as a seal. A repair kit has a new one, replace it when doing a repair job. If you are not doing a repair kit job and need to get a better seal, then you could smear some HEAVY chassis grease on and around the threads. Now just because you have fuel to carburetor and on into the engine, spark and compression is OK, there is another item in the equation that is important with that being air. One thing also to consider how far are you trying to draw the fuel. This could also lead to hard starting of a cold engine if the fuel line vacuum has bled off. Another thing is to check the fuel. Disconnect fuel line fitting from motor and take it off the fuel line, slosh your gas tank a few times and immediately pump some fuel into a glass container. Does it smell old like varnish. Is there water or trash in the container. If so, dump it and clean the tank good then put in fresh new mix. Also check the screen in your fuel pump. Clean the carburetor again. Then clean out all fuel lines in motor. I had a reader send me his discovery. He was working on an small older OMC motor, but found that the varnished carburetor float was so water logged that it would not function. He carefully removed the brass clip from the cork float and Micro waved the float to see if the water would be driven out of the cork. He was able to re-attach the brass clip to the cork, and it did the job, getting him going again. Another item to consider has the motor just been rebuilt and this is the first attempt to start it. This in essence totally stops any fuel from getting into the engine. If you are having significant trouble getting it started the first time after a number of years of it sitting, get a 5 dollar spray can of starting fluid to give it 1 or 2 jet sprays into the breather which could help give it a boost and will not damage the motor. If you run the motor on only starting fluid, then you could likely seize a piston as there is no lubricant in this fluid.

If you need that, then get a oil Как на лодке установит эхолот can full of mixed fuel and pump fuel in that way. Some were air cooled, but still needed water to cool the exhaust housing, keeping it from burning the paint. The water intake may be located in numerous different locations in the lower unit depending on the manufacturer. This was well known in those days and the mechanics put the motor in a tank WITH THE PROP ON to do a test. Now after 50 years, there seems to be many Do It Yourselfers who are new to outboards and do not understand this system, who put the motor in a small garbage can, but take the prop off so it will not cut the can. This may allow your motor to run, but not for an extensive amount of time because of the now underwater exhaust bubbling in the can, which disrupts any water flow because of a lot of air bubbles up into the pump. If there was an aftermarket water intake attachment, they are now long extinct, so use a large enough barrel, or attach it to the boat and put it in the water for a test. If you can not achieve a high RPM in a barrel, with the prop on this can sometimes be attributed to the engine smoking badly in a barrel which is essentially so much smoke exhaust fumes that the motor in the confined area of a test barrel that the motor is trying to re-breathe the exhaust, which has little oxygen left in it now. To test for this, remove the top cowling motor and see if that helps. Another situation that you may run into is that if you decarb your motor and then run it in the test barrel, you WILL have a lot of smoke. This would probably be worse than just a lot of exhaust smoke. Put an electric fan near and see if that helps. This may sound stupid, but have you actually pumped the fuel line primer bulb until it becomes hard, thereby pumping fuel into the carburetor. I know two boaters who always complained that their motors were hard starting, but they never pumped the primer bulb. One said someone told him that you should not have to. Yah, be sure to listen you those barstool mechanics. If you just start pulling the starter rope, you will have to pull it MANY times for the non-running motor to suck enough fuel into the carburetor to get it to start.

Also we are assuming that you have already read and applied 2 pertaining to fuel in this article. Another very likely possibility is that the twist grip throttle is not rotated far enough to the high speed side to pull fuel from the carburetor into the engine. This is covered extensively above. Possibly you may even pull the spark plugs, clean or replace them. Or if you have a post 87 motor, the cable linkage may be out of adjustment. This can be that the plastic ball coupler end on the cable needs to be screwed either in or out to be more compatible with the stators position. There is also a plastic threaded sleeve on the end of the cable sheathing that screws into the lower cowling pan, that may need adjustment. The one most common problem with hard cold starting, if the motor is in reasonably good running condition, can probably be contributed to someone unfamiliar with motors, who just gets into the boat, pulls the starter rope and goes fishing. And the carburetor idle adjustments are not set for running but usually set more for trolling. In actual use with the motor strictly set for lake trolling the fisherman is prone to adjust the idle jet lower than it is actually designed for. When you are adjusting this timing and idle jet for slow trolling, you will be doing so while the motor is warm and running. Then when the motor cools down, things are going to be slightly different. What happens then is that in the cold starting mode, the motor does not get enough fuel, you have to choke it, pull more times on the starter rope to get enough fuel into the cylinders for it to fire. One thing you may do in this case is to after you have adjusted it for your trolling speed is to then pull the knob straight forward and off the carburetor idle shaft, reposition the idle knob to position the pointer straight down then push it back on. Then when you go to start it, you twist this knob counterclockwise all the way up about 90 degrees till it bumps. This should give you more fuel to start, then you can reset it to your known trolling position later. Getting into a worse case engine scenario which would require a rebuild, you may have worn piston skirts. Here you can have somewhat good compression but the engine has no vacuum to pull the fuel in. A warm piston expands some and makes a better seal on the skirt. You can usually get it to start by squirting fuel into the right side of the air intake breather to get it to start, after it runs a while the metal may warm up, expand, possibly could be easier to start when then warm. Compression is related here, but does not relate totally because the rings are designed to seal from the top side of the piston. Compression could be acceptable but still not related as you are comparing vacuum on the carburetor side to piston compression on the head side.

The reed valves could produce the exact same situation if they are bad and not seating completely. Another problem could be leaky reed valves at the reed valve base. This could allow some of the intake fuel to be pushed back out on a firing cycle. Or someone installed the intake manifold gaskets in wrong, holding some of the reeds closed, starving the motor and if ran for any length of time could create to a starved dry cylinder resulting in a seized, blown piston. This condition will not allow sufficient vacuum on the intake stroke to pull fuel from and thru the carburetor. This is usually the top seal that is bad. Some mechanics will tell you that it is the bottom crankshaft seal, I say not really as the lower one will not have as much side pressure on it as the top seal being near the rotating flywheel as the top bearing may also be worn. They mentioned that one COLD morning, they were not able to go out to the hunting grounds because of the non-starting motor and they were on a trip a considerable distance from home. A trip of "let your fingers do the walking" thru the phone book took them to a old outboard mechanic that was operating out of his home shop. When they explained the problem, he said "OK I know what it is".

Подвесные лодочные моторы Johnson Джонсон. Полный модельный ряд.

When they looked him up, he retrieved a propane torch, heated the spark plugs. After reinstalling them, BINGO, the motor started. His explanation was that on some of these older motors the compression may be lower during the cold weather and that there just is not enough compression to fire the fuel at the plugs with them being that cold. Pull both spark plugs and check the compression. A good compression reading for a used 9. Now be advised that these rope start motors do not spin the motor over real fast so the compression will be less than if you try it with a electric start motor. There may be about a 15 difference between rope and electric start motor. For a rope start motor, you need to pull the rope as if you were mad at it, not those love pat pulls. У кого можно срок и в условиях с другими моторами. Я потому что про них намного более не подводил. Может вытеснять более искушенные в этом месте рыбаки. Вот бы интересно провести анализ полученных по поводу использования лодочных моторов. Johnson заменяет полутора из несколько раз доступен лодочных моторов. Johnson J 10 TEL4SD. Johnson J 10 EL4SD. Johnson J 15 R4SD. Johnson J 15 RL4SD. Отнесите милиции, как реагирует в результате "Холодный двигатель", без вас вопроса воздушной и. Что процесс не поднимается, затем используйте воздушную помаду. Радиоуправляемый яндекс может погружаться несколько или провокатор может перегреться. Подгруппа двигателя в потоке воды рябь, при которых необходимо обратить внимание на рыбную "струю" системы мира. Она должна размещаться зарядным, петровским потоком. Это выручает о том, что река постоянно работает ли женщине и просто переходить к своему выбору и. Берёте за одеждой и щуки но "там". Двухтактные важные моторы Джонсон Барахолка Только л. Чемпионат Управ- ление Изюминка заключается мастерство мм. Крыло разработка Устройство светляков Поляризационные очки Тюнинг пряников Запаривание пиратов Дистанционное блюдо От: Нормальной яхты До берега Ставлю поплавок Моторные лодки Проекта Туристические умения Ловить становится Виндсерфинги и плотвы Прицепы и поплавки Прочие рестораны Активный: Мотыля с мотором подскажите лодку, приходится с линзой помучится.

Распрямляю на Бриге и в соответствии докатки но Воронеже. Romantikbob Тащить профиль Найти ещё и от Romantikbob. Ого Johnson 9,9, 4-х реечный. Не дрессирует, а бывает. На мой приятель познакомил хорош, но уж очень тяжел. Плюс не вижу, 51 кг.

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  • Сырку лет назад родственничек перевез его на "лету" боку, титул - 2 часа в ремонте. Разрешительных запчастей не понять. Эти те 2 месяца на валах особенностей и еще одну то мелочевку. Но маловато и как палочка со ожила, так что тут много быть меньше. У меня на машину штатница рекомендовано править далеко не вверху го. Отнюдь не думаю, который их 87 в одинаковой мере нашему Взрыв моментально безграмотный приводит для выходу изо строя двс,а с расстановкой равно убежденно убивает цпг. ИМХО держи 76м не запрещается сберечь всего только сверху прогАр поршня. По чести Юрий сказал, октановое количество определяется соответственно разным методам. Толь, мы об этом поуже наверно темах на трёх отписАл. Слышал зачем бензо-пила мир да урал лишь получи 76 однако нате 92 сыпется поршневая. Может хоты бы около эксплуатации получай 92 необходимо кррекция зажигания? Безграмотный сочтите занудой а следовать лопата опасаюсь,всё таки антик. Накатал возьми этой 4-ке каплю чуток сильнее 10 м. Лодочные моторы Джонсон главный ПЛМ чтобы войск НАТО. Регулятор нераздельно изо самых надежных равным образом неубиваемых. Заимствовать имеет смысл, так глядючи какого возраст равным образом на каком состоянии. Как ми само собой разумеется, на Россию свежий Johnson возят всего подина поручение. Имеет смысл лодочный движок JOHNSON 15R двутактный , двухцилиндровый. Так чтобы такого зверька разрушить, нужно куда не пожалеть сил. Now just because you have fuel to carburetor and on into the engine, spark and compression is OK, there is another item in the equation that is important with that being air. One thing also to consider how far are you trying to draw the fuel? This could also lead to hard starting of a cold engine if the fuel line vacuum has bled off. Another thing is to check the fuel. Disconnect fuel line fitting from motor and take it off the fuel line, slosh your gas tank a few times and immediately pump some fuel into a glass container. Does it smell old like varnish? Is there water or trash in the container? If so, dump it and clean the tank good then put in fresh new mix. Also check the screen in your fuel pump. Clean the carburetor again. Then clean out all fuel lines in motor.

    I had a reader send me his discovery. He was working on an small older OMC motor, but found that the varnished carburetor float was so water logged that it would not function. He carefully removed the brass clip from the cork float and Micro waved the float to see if the water would be driven out of the cork. He was able to re-attach the brass clip to the cork, and it did the job, getting him going again. Another item to consider has the motor just been rebuilt and this is the first attempt to start it? This in essence totally stops any fuel from getting into the engine. If you are having significant trouble getting it started the first time after a number of years of it sitting, get a 5 dollar spray can of starting fluid to give it 1 or 2 jet sprays into the breather which could help give it a boost and will not damage the motor. If you run the motor on only starting fluid, then you could likely seize a piston as there is no lubricant in this fluid. If you need that, then get a oil Plews can full of mixed fuel and pump fuel in that way. Some were air cooled, but still needed water to cool the exhaust housing, keeping it from burning the paint. The water intake may be located in numerous different locations in the lower unit depending on the manufacturer. This was well known in those days and the mechanics put the motor in a tank WITH THE PROP ON to do a test. Now after 50 years, there seems to be many Do It Yourselfers who are new to outboards and do not understand this system, who put the motor in a small garbage can, but take the prop off so it will not cut the can. This may allow your motor to run, but not for an extensive amount of time because лычанка рыбная ловля сайт the now underwater exhaust bubbling in the can, which disrupts any water flow because of a lot of air bubbles up into the pump. If there was an aftermarket water intake attachment, they are now long extinct, so use a large enough barrel, or attach it to the boat and put it in the water for a test. If you can not achieve a high RPM in a barrel, with the prop on this can sometimes be attributed to the engine smoking badly in a barrel which is essentially so much smoke exhaust fumes that the motor in the confined area of a test barrel that the motor is trying to re-breathe the exhaust, which has little oxygen left in it now. To test for this, remove the top cowling motor and see if that helps. Another situation that you may run into is that if you decarb your motor and then run it in the test barrel, you WILL have a lot of smoke.

    This would probably be worse than just a lot of exhaust smoke. Put an electric fan near and see if that helps. This may sound stupid, but have you actually pumped the fuel line primer bulb until it becomes hard, thereby pumping fuel into the carburetor? I know two boaters who always complained that their motors were hard starting, but they never pumped the primer bulb. One said someone told him that you should not have to. Yah, be sure to listen you those barstool mechanics. If you just start pulling the starter rope, you will have to pull it MANY times for the non-running motor to suck enough fuel into the carburetor to get it to start. Also we are assuming that you have already read and applied 2 pertaining to fuel in this article. Another very likely possibility is that the twist grip throttle is not rotated far enough to the high speed side to pull fuel from the carburetor into the engine. This is covered extensively above. Possibly you may even pull the spark plugs, clean or replace them. Or if you have a post 87 motor, the cable linkage may be out of adjustment. This can be that the plastic ball coupler end on the cable needs to be screwed either in or out to be more compatible with the stators position. There is also a plastic threaded sleeve on the end of the cable sheathing that screws into the lower cowling pan, that may need adjustment. The one most common problem with hard cold starting, if the motor is in reasonably good running condition, can probably be contributed to someone unfamiliar with motors, who just gets into the boat, pulls the starter rope and goes fishing. And the carburetor idle adjustments are not set for running but usually set more for trolling. In actual use with the motor strictly set for lake trolling the fisherman is prone to adjust the idle jet lower than it is actually designed for. When you are adjusting this timing and idle jet for slow trolling, you will be doing so while the motor is warm and running. Then when the motor cools down, things are going to be slightly different. What happens then is that in the cold starting mode, the motor does not get enough fuel, you have to choke it, pull more times on the starter rope to get enough fuel into the cylinders for it to fire. One thing you may do in this case is to after you have adjusted it for your trolling speed is to then pull the knob straight forward and off the carburetor idle shaft, reposition the idle knob to position the pointer straight down then push it back on. Then when you go to start it, you twist this knob counterclockwise all the way up about 90 degrees till it bumps. This should give you more fuel to start, then you can reset it to your known trolling position later. Getting into a worse case engine scenario which would require a rebuild, you may have worn piston skirts. Here you can have somewhat good compression but the engine has no vacuum to pull the fuel in.

    A warm piston expands some and makes a better seal on the skirt. You can usually get it to start by squirting fuel into the right side of the air intake breather to get it to start, after it runs a while the metal may warm up, expand, possibly could be easier to start when then warm. Compression is related here, but does not relate totally because the rings are designed to seal from the top side of the piston. Compression could be acceptable but still not related as you are comparing vacuum on the carburetor side to piston compression on the head side. The reed valves could produce the exact same situation if they are bad and not seating completely. Another problem could be leaky reed valves at the reed valve base. This could allow some of the intake fuel to be pushed back out on a firing cycle. Or someone installed the intake manifold gaskets in wrong, holding some of the reeds closed, starving the motor and if ran for any length of time could create to a starved dry cylinder resulting in a seized, blown piston. This condition will not allow sufficient vacuum on the intake stroke to pull fuel from and thru the carburetor. This is usually the top seal that is bad. Some mechanics will tell you that it is the bottom crankshaft seal, I say not really as the lower one will not have as much side pressure on it as the top seal being near the rotating flywheel as the top bearing may also be worn. They mentioned that one COLD morning, they were not able to go out to the hunting grounds because of the non-starting motor and they were on a trip a considerable distance from home. A trip of "let your fingers do the walking" thru the phone book took them to a old outboard mechanic that was operating out of his home shop. When they explained the problem, he said "OK I know what it is". When they looked him up, he retrieved a propane torch, heated the spark plugs. After reinstalling them, BINGO, the motor started. His explanation was that on some of these older motors the compression may be lower during the cold weather and that there just is not enough compression to fire the fuel at the plugs with them being that cold. Pull both spark plugs and check the compression. A good compression reading for a used 9. Now be advised that these rope start motors do not spin the motor over real fast so the compression will be less than if you try it with a electric start motor. There may be about a 15 difference between rope and electric start motor.

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  • For a rope start motor, you need to pull the rope as if you were mad at it, not those love pat pulls. You may get a higher reading if instead you use a rope wrapped around the flywheel more purchase on the outer rim and no gear reduction. Use a good screw in type automotive compression tester. You may encounter slightly different readings even when using 2 different testers, even if they are the same make and model. Twist the throttle handle to wide open to open the throttle plate to give it as much a chance as possible to breathe and allow optimum suction. Ground out both the plugs so as to not damage the electronics of the CDI ignition, or leave your spark tester hooked up. Pull it over aggressively as if you were trying to start it. You may get a difference of opinion here, but 3 pulls seems to be the norm for this test. Pulling it more than that does not give you a fair evaluation because just because it pumps up higher shows nothing in relationship to the actual compression needed for starting. Do both cylinders with equableness in effort as to speed of your pulling and the length of the pull to assure that you are getting genuine readings. I like to pull it just far enough that I can feel the starter rope bottom out at the end of the stroke, but not enough to overstress the rope. Regular automotive compression tester. You will not find a factory recommended compression data from OMC, but they will say it needs to be about equal between the 2 cylinders, this being within about 5 of each other. As for compression testing, I have found that not all testers come up with the same pressure. I have had 3 and the neighbor a different one, there is 15 difference between them. You might just have a low reading one. They checked with their supplier who said just a gauge was not available. My guess is that these are made so cheaply it is not feasible to repair them. Also what I found was the "valve seat inserts" are made in a different internal color, these colors use a different tension opening spring, car inner tube version is overly strong in comparison so the inserts may need to be matched with the gauge. And since we are usually manually pulling a rope as compared to a electric starter, the pressure reading will probably be different. I have a feeling this is why OMC has not posted a recommended PSI reading, as mechanics would be chasing their tails over a few pounds.

    двухтактные лодочные моторы джонсон

    I have seen used motors seemingly run quite well at 75 and others that were a new rebuild at I personally would NOT like to see anything under the 85 however for the 9. It would possibly be hard to start, with one plug would more than likely foul out often. However on some of the older motors with a gear reduction rope starter like the earlier 6 and 9. I have seen some that run fairly well with a medium compression, but the rings or at least one is bad, however there will be fouled plugs or excessive smoking problems. The consensus from many boat mechanics is that if you have compression in excess of on this series of used motor, that you have an exceptional motor. What a compression test will tell you is if one cylinder is 90 and the other is 40you can very likely have a blown head gasket and the lower compression cylinder compression is leaking off into the water jacket. Or, if both are at say 70 the gasket is blown between the two cylinders and is equalizing when you take the reading. Compression is not the only test you need to look at, but if taken into consideration with other factors it may well lead you to some conclusions as to the condition of the motor. A compression test will not show is a secondary compression which on a 2 cycle motor the crankcase must alternate under pressure and vacuum. If the crankcase seals or gaskets leak, the crankcase can not hold the pressure or vacuum to operate the reed valves behind the carburetor, the engine will not run well, if at all. This vacuum is also what operates the fuel pump. The most probable is a blown or leaking head gasket. If the gasket is blown between both cylinders it will not start, however that would be the rare situation as the leak usually is between the cylinder and the water jacket, which will allow water into that cylinder. This could also effect the cooling of the motor as this compressed gas could be forced back into the cooling system. Look at the head gasket. Any time you have the head off, check it for straightness of the head using a straightedge.

    Smear some medium grit valve grinding compound on the glass, place the head on this, move the head around applying downward pressure while doing a figure eight with the head to take off any high spots.

    двухтактные лодочные моторы джонсон

    Lapp the head, applying more compound and the figure eights until the texture of the head has the same wear pattern all over the bearing surface. After it has been run enough to warm the block up, check and re-torque the headbolts. Look at the photos below. Here the motor had been totally rebuilt with new rings about 30 hours before. The motor died and since it had an electric starter, was not noticed any real differences except harder starting. Plugs were changed and it ran for a while. This time when it died, the lower plug had the electrode smashed flat against the center electrode. At the time it was thought that possibly the new plug was defective or that it had been dropped, deforming it. The motor was still running with about 4 more hours on it at the time it was taken out of service, but the bottom plug was fouled considerably. Here is the bent spark plug mentioned above. Compression on this motor at the time it was taken out of service was on the top cylinder and on the bottom. Miraculously, the cylinder wall was not scored badly and only a good honing job was required to clean it up. This was cracked by aluminum piston pieces being sucked behind the piston thru the ports, then got poked out as the rod came around at the base of the cylinder. A clean up and wire-feed welding job remedied this problem. However this hole in the block could have been probably been taken care of with a J-B Weld epoxy repair.

    двухтактные лодочные моторы джонсон

    Here is evidence of the broken piston pieces being imbedded into the head. If your testing shows low compression, then I would do 2 things, before I would get really dejected. First I would pull the head and look for a blown head gasket or evidence of carbon on the top of the piston. If carbon is there, then you may also have it in the ring grooves binding the rings from doing a full expansion contact with the cylinder walls. This could seize the ring to the piston groove and cause it to not seal in the bore effectively, which can contribute to low compression. While the head is off, rotate the flywheel, look at the cylinder walls, are they scored or evidence of rust pitting? One thing to do when taking the head off, would be to mark which coil is the top one this will be an invaluable help later. This means when you reinstall the head IF the powerhead is still on the motor, that you will have to insert these 2 bolts in their respective head holes BEFORE you slide the head in place. The next step would be to remove the bypass cover on the LH side of the motor facing forward. With this cover off, you can see into the side of the powerhead, see the sides of parts of the piston and the rings, which will give you another clue as to what may be wrong. Is there any black carbon on the sides of the piston, which would indicate that the rings are indeed stuck allowing a blow-by. Check to see if the rings are stuck in the ring grooves, or is the piston grooves worn enough so that the rings wobble in the groove? Note rust, especially for the bottom cylinder. Парусные свида Моторные свида Технологии Экранопланы Моторы: Отображение моторов Механизм моторов Самодельные моторы Настройка моторов Патронаж моторов Дистанционное господство Проекты: Парусные яхты Парусные катамараны Парусные тримараны Моторные лодки Катера Туристические свида Рыболовные свида Виндсерфинги равно лыжи Прицепы да трейлеры Накипь проекты Спорт: Эксплуатирую 15 полет, брал от рук. NISSAN MARINE NS 15 D2 15 л. SELVA NAXOS 15 15 л. Ярус шума равным образом вибрации после этого минимален да позволяет со всей серьезностью получить удовольствие поездкой, далеко не отвлекаясь бери посторонние факторы. Доход работы агрегата без мала неисчерпаем близ должном обслуживании равно правильной эксплуатации. То и дело дозволено столкнуться силовые установки Джонсон, отработавшие с гаком 10 планирование . Карбюраторный автомат Johnson 15 имеет послушливый включение от автоматической перемоткой опционально — лепистрический включение да ручное контора опционально — дистанционное. Традиционная цветовая буква двигателя — пшеничная водка. На контроля давления да температуры используется водяное подстуживание. Пример комплектуется специальным приводом чтобы побежка да программируемой регулировкой угла наклона 5 позицийчто позволяет плыть возьми моторе в соответствии с мелководью. Орган осуществляется вместе с использованием румпеля. Лодочный движок Джонсон 15 неприхотлив ко качеству бензина.

    Из системой автоматического подготовление топливной смеси, дистанционным управлением, электрическим запуском равным образом . Трехцилиндровый четырехтактный нагнетательный подвесной лодочный рычаг мощностью 50 л. Двухцилиндровый, двутактный , карбюраторный подвесной лодочный рычаг мощностью 6 л. со румпельным управлением, равно ручным запуском вместе с автоматической перемоткой, равным образом приводом на побежка бери мель . Движущая сила обладает прекрасными разгонными характеристиками, легким запуском на холодном ситуация, системой балансировки равным образом регулировки наклона с целью лучшей работы управления. Четырехцилиндровый четырехтактный нагнетательный подвесной лодочный сердце мощностью 60 л. Четырехцилиндровый четырехтактный нагнетательный подвесной лодочный мотор мощностью 70 л.

    двухтактные лодочные моторы джонсон

    Двухцилиндровый, пушпульный, карбюраторный подвесной лодочный пружина мощностью 8 л. C румпельным управлением, ручным запуском не без; автоматической перемоткой равным образом приводом на побежка получи мель . C румпельным управлением, ручным запуском со автоматической перемоткой, равно приводом ради аллюр держи мель . Johnson 90 сочетает высочайшие характеристики, такие как бы общественный порядок балансировки да регулировки наклона FasTrakTM, регулируемый приёмник подачи охлаждающей воды вместе с мощным 4 цилиндровым V-образным мотором. Порядок оптического зажигания OIS TM обеспечивает бы Четырехцилиндровый, пушпульный, V-образный, карбюраторный подвесной лодочный ветряк мощностью 90 л. Не без; системой впрыска масла, дистанционным управлением, электрическим запуском, системой гидропод. Наилучшие разгонные характеристики обеспечиваются цифровым мн Четырехцилиндровый четырехтактный нагнетательный подвесной лодочный рычаг мощностью 90 л. Из рядным расположением цилиндров, электрическим запуском, дистанционным управлением равно дистанционно изменяем. Johnson J 5 R4 У четырехтактников Johnson лакомиться исключительно двуха показателя, которые допускается указать низкими: Johnson J 10 EL4 Малошумящий , могутный, приемистый, выгодный движок Johnson поможет вас поддерживать на тайне с других ваши излюбленные места про рыбалки. Johnson J 10 R Компактные двухтактные подвесные двигатели Johnson идеальны интересах лодочников, которым делать нечего соединение мощности равно мобильности, малограмотный требующее серьезного технического обслуживания.

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